Nghề trồng tỏi ở Lý Sơn có từ hơn 150 năm trước, nhưng chỉ phát triển mạnh từ những năm 1990 khi người dân chuyển đổi từ trồng lạc sang tỏi do lợi nhuận cao hơn. Từ vài chục ha ban đầu, diện tích trồng tỏi tăng dần lên 200 ha vào năm 2010, rồi 300 ha như hiện nay với sản lượng trên 2.000 tấn mỗi năm. Dù là đặc sản, tỏi Lý Sơn vẫn quẩn quanh trong vòng "được mùa mất giá, được giá mất mùa". Vụ tỏi mất 6-7 tháng mới thu hoạch, nếu thuận lợi, mỗi sào thu 600-700 kg, nhưng năm mất mùa chỉ còn 200-300 kg. Giá tỏi khô biến động mạnh theo chu kỳ: năm 2018 và 2022, khi sản lượng thấp do hạn hán, giá lên đỉnh 220.000 đồng/kg; còn năm 2019 và 2023, sản lượng dồi dào khiến giá rớt xuống chỉ còn 30.000-40.000 đồng/kg. "Không ai muốn bỏ nghề, nhưng không đủ ăn, đời sống bấp bênh, nhiều người đành đi biển hoặc ra đất liền làm thuê. Tôi cũng từng như thế", Nguyễn Văn Nhật (sinh năm 1989), nhà sáng lập công ty Phú Sinh, nhớ về nỗi đau của 10 năm trước. Nỗi đau này cũng chính là điểm bắt đầu cho hành trình nâng tầm cây tỏi Lý Sơn mà 8x theo đuổi suốt thập niên qua. Tìm lối thoát "được mùa mất giá" Sinh ra tại Lý Sơn, đến khi tốt nghiệp cấp ba, Nhật rời quê làm thợ điện tại Đà Nẵng. Năm 2014, khi Lý Sơn vừa hòa lưới quốc gia, mở ra cơ hội phát triển kinh tế mới cho đảo, anh quyết định trở về quê phát triển nghề nghiệp và phụ giúp gia đình tiếp quản cơ sở mua bán hành tỏi. Những ngày đầu trở về quê, thời điểm giáp vụ thu hoạch tỏi, Nhật chứng kiến cảnh hàng chục tấn tỏi chất đống, giá rớt thê thảm. "Đặc sản của quê hương mà nằm lăn lóc, trong khi người tiêu dùng ở thành phố sẵn sàng trả giá cao cho tỏi Lý Sơn thật. Vấn đề là không có thương hiệu, không có chứng nhận chất lượng, không có kênh phân phối", anh nhớ lại.

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Nghề trồng tỏi ở Lý Sơn có từ hơn 150 năm trước, nhưng chỉ phát triển mạnh từ những năm 1990 khi người dân chuyển đổi từ trồng lạc sang...

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